There’s just something about Italy..that Italian vibe. You know what I mean? The expressive Italian phrases, scooters, hairpin turns, honk of the horn, cancelled boats, overcrowded buses but yet there is a chicness. Yes, chic. That is the word to describe the Italian people. Not in an arrogant way. They just have it-it’s natural. The linen shirts, trousers and loafers with no socks. Looks so good on an Italian man, perhaps not no much on a pale Brit? But who am I to pass comment. Yet, beneath the attractive exterior there is a sincere friendliness and love for family. You just have to listen to stories of family restaurants and watch the love on a father’s face as he talks about his daughter.
One of the joys of our holiday was staying at the beautiful Conca Park hotel in Sorrento. From start to finish our holiday was very special here due to the lovely staff working in the hotel who were clearly so proud of what they were achieving through hospitality, delicious food, zero waste policy and arty decor. The ethos is that it is a family run business and that the hotel is an extension of the owner’s living room. I think this does come through from the hotel staff who are very kind and friendly and really take an interest in each guest. The owners are visible at breakfast and dinner which was lovely, often eating in the restaurant themselves-not something I have seen in other hotels.
During our stay we visited Pompeii, Capri, Positano and Amalfi. We experienced all forms of Italian public transport! There are a few “Italian ways” to be familiar with and this will make travel less stressful! Firstly, the cars do not always stop at pedestrian crossings-just walk out confidently and keep going-do not have stage fright during the crossing process or you may be knocked down (I’m not sure-I still think your chances of survival would be higher than in London or New York but don’t try it). If you wait for a gap in traffic you may be standing at the roadside all day and will have missed all forms of public transport.
This leads nicely on to point two. Public transport works on Italian time but definitely has to be experienced. So much more fun than an overpriced organised tour (although that may be less stressful-depends what floats your boat). To travel by train the express train costs 5 times as much but is much more comfortable-it is worth experiencing the economy and express, in that order so that you appreciate the express! If you are getting the economy train from Pompeii to Sorrento you WILL be standing the entire way and likely under someone’s armpit whilst a buggy also squeezes in. Still much more pleasant than the London Underground, in my opinion, so not necessarily bad but worth being prepared. You know what they say-to be forewarned is forearmed. The trains work on Italian time-they will come, just not necessarily at the scheduled time so don’t lose heart.
Going to Capri as part of an organised tour is probably worth it as it means you have zero stress with the boats (further point to follow) and the organised walking tours around Anacapri and Capri help you get your bearings. However, out of all the places we visited Capri lacked the magic for me. Very touristy and over priced. Note to self-never ever order in a restaurant that doesn’t give you a drinks menu. One glass of ice and lemon juice (yes, that expensive ice) cost 15 euro. Lemon granita-don’t fall for it.
Bus travel is interesting. I hadn’t expected the order and queuing that I witnessed and was very impressed. Go early as the buses are busy and it is likely that you will have to wait for the next bus. A bus journey provides an opportunity to see the stunning beauty of the Amalfi coast, as long as you don’t get travel sick and are not a nervous passenger. I trust the Italian drivers. They are very experienced and obviously that toot of the horn going round a 90 degree bend keeps you safe. It’s actually the tourists that have rented a car that are the dangerous ones I think.
A better way to travel to Positano or Amalfi is to get the boat. Again, book this a day in advance as the boats are busy and it is likely that the boats would be full or cancelled on the day you wish to travel. They often get cancelled at short notice so maybe not a great idea to wait until the last boat.
I do wonder though is the beauty of the Amalfi coast being ruined a little by the hoards of tourists who are flocking to enjoy the sunshine and lemons. I don’t know about you but I love experiencing the local culture and being surrounded by Italians when in Italy. I have been told that this summer is particularly busy but especially Positano and Amalfi are just overrun by tourists. You are literally swept along in a hoard of tourists whilst walking up the narrow streets. There are a lot of shops selling souvenirs and whilst eating in a restaurant, you are surrounded by tourists. When I visit Sorrento again I will avoid the more popular areas and instead visit some of the lesser known villages. Despite this there is simply a charm about the Amalfi coast. There is nothing that compares to the Italian way of life-it’s organised hustle and bustle, the drivers won’t actually run you down, that loud and expressive language is so full of love, the food is delicious and there is so much gelato! There is a scent of lemon everywhere you go. And that Italian chic..
Where better in the world to make lemonade than in Sorrento..the very heart of beautiful lemons? Arrivederci, Sorrento!

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